glock 43 trigger assembly diagram

Glock 43 Trigger Assembly Diagram - I wanted to believe that 1911 was the end of everything. but I always give more time to the Glock than the Wilson. At 22 and a young 11B, I was not an ideal candidate for a 1911. Truth be told, it's been nearly a decade since I've had a Glock issued 1911 or the entire time I've been shooting pistols in my Army. I'm not dead yet.

Of course, I can now legally handle one (thanks to the LAV) and I can shoot well. And I love the 1911's quality workmanship and heritage. They have

Glock 43 Trigger Assembly Diagram

I love what people say. But I'm a realist. I like shooting my guns more than cleaning or maintaining them.

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[Note: Guest author Jon C. Welcome to the active duty United States Army Special Forces. This article was originally published by Gray Group Training. Presented here slightly enlarged and photographed with permission.] More

[singlepic id=4083 w=500]Put yourself in a scene that forces your pistol to fire 7 shots. And then another target appeared. Which is faster? Reloading under intense pressure or pulling the trigger again... 10 times. (Thanks Bob M for that) Glock is the gun for me.

I've seen a lot of uneducated people having problems with Glock pistols lately, and I've seen countless examples of advice given by the "internet" about what a reliable duty trigger should be. Not every commando is a sniper. Some gun commandos are not only gun lovers but also knowledgeable gun experts. My aim here is to break Taito down into its individual parts; To understand how each can change the characteristics of the trigger (and the gun as a whole) and to give people the tools to choose safe and reliable composite parts. It gives them the performance they want.

Speaking in terms of 9/40/.357 small frame Glocks. The size used by most Glock shooters. Most will carry over to 20/21 as well. If you shoot a .45GAP, I'll pretend I can't help you. But the direction is the same. Here is a diagram of Glock pistols showing the 33 factory parts; I'll use the Glock nomenclature throughout the article, as shown in this chart: Glock (used with permission).

Safe Action System

This part interacts with many of the other parts we'll talk about and reacts significantly to your finger when you fire the pistol.

[singlepic id=4106 w=320 h=240 float=nene]Glock 17/22, 34/35, And the 17L/24 comes out with a smooth texture on the left. The 26/27 and 19/23 trigger have vertically oriented serrations. This comes in compliance with BATF firearms import guidelines. Most people I know prefer the smooth-faced trigger and often swap for the serrated version. The trigger safety is a vertical notch in the center of the trigger face. When you touch it with your finger, The trigger is prevented from moving backwards and the pistol does not fire.

[singlepic id=4094 w=280 float=none]A trigger bar added to this pivoting trigger. The trigger bar is a stamped piece of steel that interacts with the internal components of the striker firing system. The internal safety and striker allow the firing pin to travel the length of the channel and detonate the cartridge's primer. Working from the trigger is the first note on the trigger bar, which is the vertical strip above the bar. [singlepic id=4076 w=320 h=240 float=none] This (#9) is where the button bar improves the firing pin safety. This part is also commonly known as the striker block. When the button is depressed, This hole moves back and pushes the firing pin up. As crater safety moves, It cuts a horizontal hole in the profile that lines up with the flue channel and allows the crater to move freely around the front. This interaction is important when performing a trigger task and will be addressed later. Move to the end of the trigger bar; This is the appropriately named connector (#24); It reaches the point where it connects to the trigger spring (#25) and the trigger mechanism area (#23). [singlepic id=4088 w=320 h=240 float=none] A cross-shaped protrusion on the rear of the bar retains and releases the cocking and firing pin (#5). Although there is no actual sear on the Glock safety action. The face of the trigger bar performs the functions of a sear; Because this is where the firing pin is released.

[singlepic id=4104 w=320 h=240 float=none]When a Glock shooter decides to change the mechanics of their trigger, the first thing they turn to is the trigger connector. The connector is a small piece of stamped metal that shifts the weight of the trigger pull. It is pressed against the side of the trigger housing, and the wide, curved lip angle on the connector adjusts the force required to cock and release the pin to fire. As the trigger bar moves backward; The rounded edge rides over the wide edge on the connector and pushes down. The steeper the angle, the The heavier the driver.

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[singlepic id=4100 w=320 h=240 float=none] The connector should not sit against the trigger housing in its channel. It seems a little startled, and that's normal. Do not try to bend it at a 90 degree angle. A slight external force should be applied to the connector trigger bar. A small flange at the top of the connector interacts with a groove on the slide to release the trigger bar during reset.

*** Weights and feel below vary somewhat from gun to gun. These are stamped parts rather than machined and differ to some extent in their concept.

Glock makes 3 versions of the connector that I recommend for use on duty/defense guns. They are Standard (5.5lb); Minus (4.5lb) and Connector5 (also called "Dot" (5lb). Glock considers the rarer pair or heavier 8.0lb (+) connector.

[singlepic id=3578 w=320 h=240 float=nene] The standard connector (middle) is for smaller guns (26 etc.); Comes in both compact guns (19, etc.) and full size guns (17, etc.). . Glock is rated at 5lbs but now sells for 5.5. Once broken in, it provides smooth traction. They can be painted well out of the box or given a simple polish job. Regardless, it's a very reliable trigger.

Laser Ammo: Dry Fire Reset Trigger For Glock Pistols

The negative connector (left) comes with 35/35 and 17L/24 size guns and produces a 4.5lb pull weight (previously 3.5lb) according to Glock Tech specs. It also provides a reliable and fireable switch when used with other factory components.

The dot connector (right) is a newly developed component that works best with the redesigned trigger bar on the Gen4 pistol. The Gen4 trigger bars are slightly altered and are reported to be intermediate between standard and minus connectors due to increased weight. When used in conjunction with the Gen3 trigger bar they provide a slightly lighter and crisper burst with positive reset.

Although I have heard anecdotal reports that Lone Wolf connectors work well. The non-adjustable Ghost connectors are the only aftermarket connectors I've found to work well. in particular, Scherer connections should be avoided at all costs. When in doubt, look for Glock factory connectors.

This part is a quick and easy way to get a different trigger pull and can be installed on any Glock shooter in minutes.

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The trigger spring is where the "give and take" of the trigger pull is determined. [singlepic id=4091 w=320 h=240 float=none] The trigger spring connects the trigger bar to the trigger housing via a coiled "S". "Captive coil spring (NY series) with a spring or plastic leaf. The interaction of the two springs is not exactly the same, but their basic functions are the same, so we'll skip the engineering lesson. It's enough to understand that the trigger spring actually pulls the connector to the rear of the gun. The heavier the spring, the more you can push the drone.

Trigger spring, trigger puller (sold as "lighter" because of its effect on pull). A "lighter" spring forces the trigger and makes it easier to move the trigger bar, but the resulting "lighter" spring resists the movement of the trigger to reset. A "heavier" (actually lighter) spring results in a heavier trigger pull, but the spring's reduced resistance pushes the trigger harder. Pulled back.

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